Sunday, 6 February 2022

Baten Allah Walon ki:Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki Shaheed-e Mohabbat: Martyr of God's Love

Hazrat Khwaja Syed Muhammad Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki was a renowned Sufi saint and scholar of the Chishti Order from Delhi, India.

 

The additional suffix of 'Kaki' to his name was attributed to hint by virtue of a miracle that emanated from him at a later stage of his life at Delhi. Popularly, he is also called Khwaja Kaki and Hazrat Qutub Saheb.

 

He was a born saint and had the honor of being the 'first' Spiritual Successor of Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti of Ajmer.

 

Family & Early life & Education

Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki was born in 1173 C.E. in a small town called Aush in the Fergana Valley (present Osh, part of historic Transoxiana-Present-day Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, southern Kyrgyzstan, and southwest Kazakhstan)

 

When Hazrat Qutbuddin was just eighteen months old, he lost his father. His mother, who was also a pious and very intelligent lady, made suitable arrangements for her child's education.

 

At the tender age of 5, he was put under the loving care of a learned tutor, Maulana Abu Hafus, who started him with the teaching of both theological and spiritual sides of knowledge.

Dargah -Khawaja Qutbuddin Kaki R.A
 

When Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti visited awash, during one of his travels, Khwaja Qutbuddin, who was then 17 years old, offered himself as a Mureed (disciple) to the great saint and sought his blessings for a spiritual career. The great Khwaja Saheb of Ajmer accepted him immediately.

 

His devotion to the Prophet

Khwaja Qutbuddin, after his initiation used to offer 95 rakaats (units) of Namaz during the 24 hours of day and night, along with 3000 salutations (Darood) every night upon the holy soul of the Holy Prophet Mohammad .

 

During the first 3 nights of his first marriage, as he could not maintain the Darood, the Prophet sent a visionary message, through a pious person named Rais Ahmed, demanding Hazrat Bakhtiar's explanation for this omission.

 

The Khwaja realized his grave error and at once offered Talaaq (legal dissolution of a marriage under the Islamic Shariat) to his wife as a mark of his repentance for the omission.

 

A strange incident: Scorpion, Azdaha and a Sinfull Man

Hazrat Khwaja Qutbuddin relates another interesting incident of his travels. He says:

 

“Once I was staying on the bank of a river with my most intimate friend, Qazi Hamiduddin Nagauri. We saw that a very big scorpion was speeding up in a direction.

 

O spoke to my friend that there appears to be some 'divine secret' behind this phenomenon; let us follow the scorpion to find it out. My friend agreed and we followed the scorpion and saw that it reached the bottom of a big tree where it furiously stung a monstrous Azdaha (boa) who died at once.

 

Nearby we noticed a man who was fast asleep. Taking him to be a very pious person, we did not like to disturb him but waited to speak to him when he was awake. But when we approached him, we felt a very obnoxious smell and found that he was horribly drunk (with wine).

 

We were indeed greatly surprised to see him in this sinful condition on the one hand, and God Almighty's favor upon him, on the other, in saving him from that monstrous boa whom the scorpion had killed.

 

Just as we were wondering over the incident, we heard a 'Nida'(divine voice) that vibrated in the surroundings.

 

It said: "If We (God) keep our favors reserved for the holy and the pious only, then who would look after the sinful? This Nida shook off the sleep of the man who was awfully frightened to see the Azdaha lying by him.

 

After some time, we heard, he renounced the world and became one of the most pious persons of his time. He undertook the pilgrimage to Mecca 70 times on foot.”   

 

Arrival in Delhi

It is reported that when Khwaja Qutbuddin arrived in Delhi from Ajmer, Sultan Shamsuddin Iltutmish, who was the ruler of India at Delhi, went out of the city to welcome the Khwaja because he had very great respect for Sufi dervishes.

 

He wanted to arrange for Qutub Saheb's stay in the city, but the latter preferred to stay at Kelu Kheri, a suburb of Delhi.

 

The Sultan, however, used to wait upon him twice a week in order to receive his spiritual blessings and guidance. The Sultan, later on, became a regular and most dutiful disciple of Hazrat Qutbuddin.

Qutub Minar Complex

At this stage, he again requested his Pir to come and stay with him in the city because in attending upon him at Kelu Kheri, which he must do, he had to spend much of his time which he could save to attend to the affairs of his government Hazrat Qutub Saheb agreed and shifted to the mosque of Malik Ainuddin in the city.

 

His love for his Pir-o-Murshid (Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti)

It is reported that once, out of the unbearable love for his Pir-o-Murshid (Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti) Khwaja Qutbuddin wrote a letter seeking his Pir's permission to go to Ajmer and satisfy the thirst of his love by kissing his Murshid's feet.

 

But, in the meantime, Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin, who also loved his disciple dearly, himself started for Delhi and reached their quite unexpectedly.

 

Here the Sultan and the public, when they heard of the arrival of Hazrat Khwaja Saheb, all came out of the city to offer their homage and welcome greetings to him.

But the Sheikh-ul-Islam of Delhi, i.e. Sheikh Najmuddin Sughra did not take any notice of Khwaja Saheb's arrival. Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin himself went to see the Sheikh at his home.

 

When they met, the Sheikh bitterly complained that "due to the presence and popularity of Khwaja Qutbuddin in Delhi, his own position as Sheikh-ul-Islam had become practically Nil".

 

Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin, for the sake of removing even this absurd grievance, ordered his disciple, Khwaja Qutbuddin, to leave Delhi and go to Ajmer with him.

 

Delhi's public demonstration

When this news reached the Sultan, he felt awfully upset and beseeched Khwaja Saheb not to take away Khwaja Qutbuddin from Delhi. But it was not accepted and the Khwaja Saheb started back for Ajmer with Khwaja Qutbuddin.

 

When the citizens of Delhi saw this they wailed and wept and protested imploringly before Hazrat Khwaja Saheb to leave Khwaja Qutbuddin with them in Delhi He was so much loved and esteemed that the people used to pick up the dust from under his feet and smear it upon their eyes.

 

When Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin saw this overwhelming love for his beloved disciple in Delhi, he said: "Baba Qutub you may stay here because I do not like to hurt the feelings of this vast multitude by taking you away from them."

 

Khwaja Qutbuddin was, however, summoned to Ajmer before the death of his Pir-o-Murshid.

The Death of his Pir-o-Murshid Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti

Khwaja Qutbuddin was, however, summoned to Ajmer before the death of his Pir-o-Murshid.

 

Before a gathering of his mureeds, Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin delivered a last sermon 40 days before his death at Ajmer when Hazrat Qutbuddin was also present the great Khwaja Saheb said: "The whole world is illuminating with the Divine Light of God Almighty."

Finishing this first sentence, his eyes swelled up with contemplative tears. After a pause, he resumed: "O dervishes. God has brought me to this place so that I may die and lie here for ever.

 

Now, after a few days. I am leaving this world." This declaration sent a gloomy wave of sorrow and despondency among all present.

 

Sheikh Ali Sanjari, his attendant and correspondent was also present in the gathering.

 

Hazrat Khwaja Gharib Nawaz ordered him to write down a "Farman" (order) in favour of Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiar Kaki-That he must go to Delhi "I appoint him as my Sajjada nashin at Delhi along with the sacred relics of our Khwajgaan-e-Chisht. "Then, addressing Khwaja Qutbuddin. He said "Your place is Delhi."

 

The parting scene

Hazrat Khwaja Qutbuddin says "When the Firman was ready, it was handed over to me and I was called to go near my Pir.

 

When I did so, he put his kulah (headgear) on my head and wrapped the turban with his own sacred hands He then gave me Hazrat Khwaja Usman Harooni's Asa (holy staff), his own copy of the Holy Quran, his musalla (prayer carpet) and a pair of sandals and said:

“These are the most sacred relies of our Holy Prophet which have come down to us through the past generations of our Khwajgaan-e-Chisht (succeeding dervishes in the silsila of Chishti saints)Which were entrusted to me by my Pir-o-Murshid, Hazrat Khwaja Usman Harooni.

 

Now I am giving them to you. You should prove yourself worthy of them, like our revered predecessors in our Order, so that on the Day-of-Judgment I may not suffer shame before God and our holy predecessors”.    

 

Hazrat Khwaja Qutbuddin and his family (for he had married again after the divorce of his first wife as mentioned in the foregoing pages) had to face faaqaa (unavoidable starvation due to renouncement.

 

Often, after several days of faaqaa, his wife used to buy some provisions through the help of a loan from the wife of a neighbouring baqqaal (the provision dealer) to arrange for food.

 

One day the wife of baqqaal taunted Hazrat Qutub Saheb's wife saying, "If I stop lending you money, you and your children would starve to death." When this taunt was brought to the notice of Hazrat Khwaja Qutbuddin.

 

He forbade his wife to borrow anything from the baqqaal's wife in future but to take out as many kaks kind of very tasty bread) as she needed from the slot of his hujra (cell) by reciting Bismillah, which is "In the Name of God, the Merciful, the Compassionate."

 

The lady did the same and the necessity of a loan never arose again. It was this miraculous incident which indicates the popular 'suffix' of the word of 'kaki' to Hazrat Qutbuddin's name.

 

Learning of Quran by heart

Like his Pir-o-Murshid, Khwaja Qutbuddin also entertained a burning love for the Holy Prophet as mentioned before in connection with his offering of 3000 'Darood-o-salaam' (salutations) every night in praise of the Prophet .

 

One day, in one of such meetings, he disclosed:“ In the beginning of my career as a dervish, I could not succeed in remembering the Holy Quran by heart despite my very best efforts to do so.

 

One night I saw the Holy Prophet in a dream. I fell at his feet and represented my eagerness to learn the Holy Quran by heart.

 

The prophet expressed his compassion for me and asked me to raise my head.

 

When I did so, he instructed me to repeat Surah Yusuf (a chapter of the Holy Quran) which, he said, would enable me to learn the holy book by heart.

 

Accordingly I carried out the command of the Prophet and succeeded in learning the Quran by heart.     ”

(This is a precious hint for all those who want to learn the Holy Quran by heart).

 

Shaheed-e-Mohabbat (Martyr of God's love)

He was fond of music, and regarded it lawful, under certain conditions and limitations.

 

Qazi Hamiduddin Nagauri and Sheikh Badruddin Ghaznavi helped to bring Khwaja Qutbuddin in his state of wajd to his home, (the Qawwals repeating the said couplet), where he remained in the same state for 3 consecutive days and nights and expired on the 4th day.

 

He passed away during such a recital. The Qawwals began with the ode of Sheikh Ahmad Jam. When they sang the couplet:

 

"Kushtagan-e Khanjar-e Tasleem ra;

 Harzaman az Ghaib Jan Digar ast."

(Translation:  For the victims of the sword of divine love, there is new life every moment from the unseen).

 

On account of this extraordinary death, Hazrat Khwaja Qutbuddin is known as "Shaheed-e-Mohabbat" (martyr of God's love).

 

At the time of death, Hazrat Khwaja Qutbuddin's head was resting on the thigh of his beloved friend Qazi Hamiduddin Nagauri, while both of his hands were in the lap of Sheikh Badruddin Ghaznavi.

 

Place of burial

A few weeks before his death, Hazrat Khwaja Qutbuddin was returning home after the Idd prayer when he stayed at a place on the way and told his companions: "I feel the smell of love coming out of this place."

 

The owner of the land was summoned immediately and it was purchased. This is the same place where the great saint was buried and where his illustrious Dargah stands upto this day.

 

Stages in the path of Sufism

Hazrat Khwaja Qutbuddin says; "According to Mashaikh-e-Tariqat (great Sufis) there are 180 stages in the path of Sufism, but according to Junaidia silsila there are 100 stages; according to Zunnooni silsila there are 70 stages.

 

According to Ibrahim Bashar Haafi, there are 50 stages; according to Khwaja Bayazid Bastami, Abdulla Mubarik and Khwaja Safyaan Soori, there are 45 stages in the path of Sufism.

 

According to Shah Shuja Kirmani, Samnoon Hujjat and Khwaja Mar'Atish, there are 20 stages but according to the Chishtia silsila there are only 15 stages.

 

All these various stages include a stage of miracles or karaamaat also. Among these different 'silsilas' serially, the stages of miracles stand at numbers 80, 50, 30, 25, 10 and 5 respectively.

 

It is however, strictly warned that, after attaining the 'stage of miracles', a Sufi must never disclose it because by doing so, he would be deprived of all the other stages already attained by him, and all his hard earned and precious strivings and lifelong devotion and 'Mujahedas' would be lost."

 

Divine secrets must never be disclosed

Hazrat Khwaja Qutbuddin has strictly forbidden against the disclosure of the 'divine secrets' in Sufism.

 

He says; "A Sufi must have a very strong courage, will-power and tolerance to resist the temptation of exposing divine secrets of his 'friend' (God)."

 

He gives his own example and says that he never divulged the secrets of his Pir-o-Murshid under any circumstances although he stayed with him for many years together.

 

According to him, Mansoor Hallaj (who was crucified in the well-known episode of "Anal-Huq" was not a perfect Sufi because he divulged the 'divine secret' and had to pay the penalty with his life, as his story goes.

 

He said, "In the state of 'Sukr' Hazrat Junaid Baghdadi had to suffer an extremely difficult time but he never disclosed his divine secrets to any one.

 

Phoolwalon-ki-Sair Festival

Kaki’s fame never declined. During the final years of the Mughal rule, the British Resident banished the Mughal prince Mirza Jahangir from Delhi.

 

The festival has its origins in 1812, when Queen Mumtaz Mahal, wife of the Mughal Emperor, Akbar Shah II (1806-1837) made a vow to offer a chadar and flower pankha at the Dargah and a pankha at the Yogmaya Mandir, also at Mehrauli.

 

Apparently, he did return and the tradition of decorating these two shrines is celebrated every September to this day.

The End

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Wednesday, 2 February 2022

Adventurous Journey Mumbai To Murud-Janjira: Undefeated Sea Fort

This was our fourth day in Mumbai, the city of dreams that often ends up with distress. Filth, pollution, city bustle, and the rush-hour traffic add to the woes of the daily road commuters.

 

The travel bug inside me seeks not the normal, but the extraordinary.So we decided to explore the tranquillity, beauty, calm, and the purest form of nature in Murud-Janjira.

 

Murud-Janjira is situated on an island just off the coastal town of Murud, in the Raigad district of Maharashtra, India at a distance of about 165 km.

Murud Janjira is the only unconquered fort on the western coastline of India. What makes this Fort remarkable is that it is actually 3 kms away from the coast on the Arabian Sea.

 

This fort is the best place for history enthusiasts and photography lovers. During its prime, the island fort boasted 572 cannons.

 

After a pleasant and enjoyable six hours taxi ride on decent roads, we were at Murud. I had made reservations at the Golden Swan Beach Resort, which has a variety of rooms and cottages.

 

Other option is simpler Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) rooms and cottages. An interesting stay would be with residents who have rooms and shacks on rent.No matter where you choose to stay; the beach is just a few minutes’ walk away.

The Golden Swan Resort is on the beach itself, and even as we entered it, the sun was readying to set over the vast expanse of the sea, right ahead. The beach is fringed with betel and palm trees and all around in Murud.

 

The next day began with a wonderful sunrise that entered my room through the window.After breakfast it seemed like everyone in the resort was headed to the village of Rajpuri, which is 5 km away from Murud.

 

Once there, we get close into sailboats that would take us to the fort. I had to wait my turn patiently in a long queue. Every sailboat comes equipped with self-appointed guides

As we proceeded to sail across to the fort, our guide told us that many Sidi families lived within the boundaries of the fort up till 1972. When the fort began decaying these families moved out. The heirs of the Sidi royalty of Janjira now live mostly in Mumbai or Indore but do visit Janjira sometimes.

In the middle of our chatting the fort appeared into view; a 40 feet tall, magnificent structure, fighting the relentless battering of the Arabian Sea all around it even today.

 

Ticket is 20 Rs per person. The same boat-wallah acts as a guide and shows the important points with brief history in 45 minutes for 20 more rupees.

 

Took some 20 mins for the boat to reach to the entrance. Actually a marvellous architecture!! The fort is built such that unless you come very close to it you cannot make out where its entrance is.

 

As boat loads of people embarked, guide continued: the fort took 22 years to build and is spread over 22 acres of land. At the entrance is an inscription in Persian and a stone carving depicting a tiger engulfed by six elephants which, is the emblem of the might of the Sidis.

The necessities of one age are the wonders of another! That is precisely the feeling I had when I saw Janjira Fort, standing proud and undefeated in the Arabian Sea.

The fort is crescent shaped, with several arches. In the heydays, there were 500 cannons mounted on these arches; only three are left today.

 

Inside the fort walls are the ruins of a masjid, and a palace and bath with water channelled from streams, telling of ancient times when royal ladies occupied the quarters.

The deep well with cold and sweet water—a wonder of nature in the midst of the saline sea—still provides water to quench the thirst of the weary visitor.

 

Gazing into the horizon from the parapets of this magnificent fort overlooking the sea, one cannot but acknowledge its great strength that withstood a number of invasions.

 

The Fort of Janjira on the sea is the only one of its kind. Janjira Jal-durg (sea fort) was constructed by Malik Amber, an Abyssinian minister in the service of the Sultan of Ahmednagar, who belonged to the famous Nizamshahi dynasty, is almost entirely intact even today, despite the ravages of wind and tide, a testimony to the marvels of ancient engineering.

 

The fort, built at the end of the 15th Century, is almost entirely intact even today, despite the ravages of wind and tide, a testimony to the marvels of ancient engineering. Murud-Janjira fort was attacked by the Marathas, Portuguese, and Britishers.

 

Instead of so many attacks throughout the time, it remains unconquered and remains successful to establish the Janjira sultanate.

 

Surprisingly, not even Shivaji could acquire it despite 13 expeditions to conquer the fort.

According to all accounts, the sea fort of Janjira could not be conquered by any of the kings ruling the neighbouring territories.

 

His son, Sambhaji, tried a unique approach to capture the fort: digging an underwater tunnel to enter. But he too failed in his attempt. Not to be frightened, Sambhaji constructed another fort just across the bay, called Kansa.

Most of the earth that was dug up to build the tunnel was used in the making of this second fort, which was to be the base for future attacks on the sea fort of Janjira. This fort took 22 years to build and is constructed on 22 acres of land.

 

The fort is oval shaped instead of the usual oblong or square shape. The fort wall is about 40 feet high and has 19 rounded porches or arches, some of which still have cannons mounted on them, including the famous cannon 'Katlal Bhankari'.

 

These cannons were largely responsible for repelling oncoming enemies from the sea. Inside the fort walls, the ruins of a masjid, a palace and bath with water channelled from streams, tell of ancient times when royal ladies occupied the quarters.

 

The deep well with cold and sweet water - a wonder of nature in the midst of the saline sea, still provides water to quench the thirst of the weary visitor.

 

On the ramparts nearby there are cannons of metal, which still are in better condition. It has been discovered that there were 572 cannons on the fort in 1669. There are 22 bastions, on many of which such cannons are seen.

 

Even today these have stood the test of time and are in a good condition. It takes about 2-2 ½ hrs. to see the fort.

 

Gazing into the horizon from the ramparts of this magnificent fort overlooking the sea, one cannot but acknowledge its great strength that withstood a number of invasions. This invincible fort remained unconquered until it became part of Indian Territory after Independence from British in 1947.

Other attractions for history buffs include the Palace of the Nawab. This luxurious cliff-top mansion built by the former Nawab of Janjira commands a panoramic view of the Arabian Sea and the Janjira sea fort.

 

Then there are the Janjira Caves, while nature lovers will enjoy Murud, the erstwhile capital of the state of Janjira. Murud is actually a tiny fishing village atop a small hillock with a heart-stopping view of the coast, with mile after mile of soft silvery sand.

The beaches of Kashid and Nandgaon with their whispering casuarina, coconut and betel palms are a balm for the weary city dweller.

 

As we go from Murud to Rajpuri, the southernmost point of Murud-Janjira city, we get a grand view of Janjira. It cannot be seen from the main beach.

 

The fort that is seen from here is Padmadurg, built by Shivaji as a counterpart to Janjira. As we go nearer, we come to know the hugeness of the fort. The entrance to the fort faces the east.

 

Ferryboats from Rajpuri village halt at the entrance door of the fort. Inscription in Persian on a white stone near the door can be clearly seen.

 

Rock carvings on both sides of the entrance are of Gajant Lakshmi. A can be seen on the Mahadwar of the fort take you to a place where Cannons are kept. The biggest of them is named ‘Kalad Bangdi’.

 

Janjira came into prominence in the late 15th or early 16th century when the Sidi's became its virtual masters.

 

After it had been ruled over by such historical greats as the Mauryas, Silharas, Chalukyas, and Yadavas, it fell into the hands of the Abyssinians or Siddis in 1490 A.D, by way of trickery against a Koli king.

Malik Ambar, a powerful Abyssinian, subsequently constructed a strong stone fort there in 1567 A.D. numerous wars were waged against the Siddis by the Marathas, Mughals, and Portuguese to wrest Janjira from them, but in vain.

 

The Sidis proved fiercer soldiers and greater sea farers than them all. The Janjira state came to an end after 1947 with the merging of princely Indian states with the union.

Finally sometime in 1970s the Nawab of Janjira handed over the fort to Indian Govt and he settled in his palace in Murud (which is still there and his generations are living there). Other people from the fort also vacated and left for living in nearby villages like Rajpuri.

Siddi Palace Murud-Janjira

Spread over a vast land of more than 45 acres, Siddi Palace, also known as Nawab Palace, is one of most visited destinations of Raigad District in the state of Maharashtra. With a distinct architectural style representing a mix of Gothic as well as Mughal approaches, the Siddi Palace is one of a kind.

 

Though not open for public as it is still owned by the descendants of the Nawab of Janjira, many tourists still stop by the place to take photographs of this architectural marvel.

 

Siddi Palace is located to the left of Revdanda-Murd road and can be encountered just before entering Murud. It was actually built by the Nawab of Janjira and was intended for administration purposes.

 

The palace is historic of architectural importance, however, it is not owned by the government and is still under the control of Nawab’s heirs and is considered as a private property.

 

The palace was vacated in the year 1885 as the Nawab of Janjira decided to move into his Ahmedganj palace. Standing tall in its own unique style, Siddi Palace is built on the edge of a mountain and offers breath taking views of the great Arabian Sea as well as the entire Murud village.

 

The royal family of Janjira was Sidis, also known as 'Habshi', assumed to be from Abyssinia.

 

Initially the rulers of the state held the title of 'Wazir', but after 1803 the title of 'Nawab' was officially recognized by the British Raj. They were entitled to an 11 gun salute by the British authorities following the independence of India in 1947; the state was merged with India.

 

Finally sometime in 1970s the Nawab of Janjira handed over the fort to Indian Govt and he settled in his palace in Murud (which is still there and his generations are living there). Other people from the fort also vacated and left for living in nearby villages like Rajpuri.

 

There are a number of auto-rickshaws, taxis and private buses available to reach the Nawab Palace or Murud's Durbar Road from Roha railway station.

 

Tourists that come to Murud to visit places like Murud Janjira Fort, Padmadurga (Kasa) Fort, Garambi Dam, Korlai Fort, and Kude Caves, often stop by the Siddi palace to click a few frames of the exotic Arabian Sea and the stunning aerial views of the Murud village.

 

Konkani seafood has to be the food of choice in Murud, though it’s often spicy.

 

A thali makes for the perfect mixture of delicious regional dishes like 7 vegetables, Chapatti, Sweet, Dal, Rice, Buttermilk, Papad and मोदक.

 

Food Stalls in Murud have good seafood (jhinga curry and masala fish being two options) and also local vegetarian curries. The stalls and eateries on the beach also offer mouth-watering batata vada, pakodas, bhel and panipuri, and refreshing coconut water.

The End