AMU Tarana:The Breath of Aligs-In Camera Of Engr Maqbool Akram

“Ye mera chaman hai mera chaman, main apne chaman kaa bulbul hun”, this one line is a magical string that connects Millions of Aligs all around word. Their head and foot move in same pitch, tempo and rhythm, all around word with this Nazam “Tarana-E-Aligarh (Nazr-e-Aligarh).

Tarana is sung in chorus, with full josh, by a group of boys and girls in a uniform:Boys in black sherwani and girls in white salwar suit. When this Tarana is sung with orchestra in chorus with orchestra with all the vigour, it appears that Aligs are able to move mountains and create waves in the most calmest lakes.

Tarana starts in rhythm as Lounging sea breeze further it changes in roaring waterfall and ends with powerful sound of thunderstorms….and then a pin drop silence.

The Story of AMU Tarana

The tarana itself is a fine creativity of Urdu penned by Asrar-ul-Haq Majaz.He was AMU Aligarh, student in between 1930 and 1936. In one of visit (1936) of Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru to AMU Aligarh, he asked students to sing university song.

He was surprised that university has not its own anthem- Tarana. The very next morning, Asrarul Haq Majaz, student of AMU at that time, was ready with a masterpiece nazam.Later this nazam (Nazr-e-Aligarh) was truncated and adopted as official lyrics of AMU tarana.

Majaz first recited it the same year 1936, in the Union Hall, in the presence of the Pro-Vice Chancellor (PVC) A.B. Ahmed Haleem Saheb.When Majaz reached the lines Haleem saheb asked to stop the recital and walked out:---

“Yahan ham ne kamanden dali hain, Yahan hum ney shabkhoon maray hain;

Yahan hum nay qabayen nochi hain, yahan hum nay taj utarey hain”

The huge gathering of students asked him to continue but Majaz did not. After some time, he relaxed and completed it in the Union Hall’s lawns (between Morrison court and Union building).

Although Majaz left the university campus, his poetry continued to influence students. Ishtiaque Ahmad Khan, a B. Ed student (1954-55) was also one such person. 

An address by the VC, Dr Zakir Husain, to the final year students inspired Khan to do something long-lasting for the university. He thought of putting Majaz’s Nazr-e-Aligarh to tune and was confident of it becoming the university song.

Ishtiaque Ahmad Khan created the tune in the last week of September, 1954, and requested the President of the Union, Ahmad Saeed, to present Tarana to university. He refused angrily on hearing the poet’s name–Majaz being a progressive writer.But; Dr.Zakir Husain vice chancellor at that time agreed and even acknowledged that it was one of Majaz’s best works.

 It was October 17^th (Sir Syed Day),1954, when Ishtiaque Ahmad Khan was at dais in the Stretchy Hall along with his troupe (Saleh Naiyyar, Ghulam Haider Ejaz and Fasih). 

Izzat Yaar Khan, Secretary of SS Hall Music Club, started the tune on the harmonium and soon the hall was reverberating with the sound of “Ye mera chaman…” Dr.Zakir Husain VC of that time was impressed. Even Saeed appreciated the poem and apologised to Ishtiaque about his stand earlier.

Lyric of AMU Tarana

Ye mera chaman hai mera chaman, main apne chaman ka bulbul hun

Sar-shaar-e-nigah-e-nargis hun, paa-basta-e-gesu-e-sumbul hun

Ye mera chaman hai mera chaman, ye mera chaman hai mera chaman

Main apne chaman ka bulbul hun

Jo taaq-e-haram mein roshan hai, WO shama yahan bhi jalti hai

Is dasht ke goshe goshe se, ek joo-e-hayat ubalti hai

Ye dasht-e-junoon deewanon ka, ye bazm-e-wafa parwanon ki

Ye shahr-e-tarab roomanon ka, ye khuld-e-bareen armanon ki

Fitrat ne sikhai hai ham ko, uftad yahan parwaz yahan

Gaye hain wafa ke get yahan, chheda hai junoon ka saaz yahan

Is bazm men taighen khenchin hain, is bazm mein saghar tode hain

Is bazm men aankh bichhai hai, is bazm mein dil tak jode hain

Har shaam hai shaam-e-Misr yahan, har shab hai shab-e-Shiraz yahan

Hai saare jahan ka soz yahan aur saare jahan ka saaz yahan

Zarraat ka bosa lene ko, sau baar jhuka aakaash yahan

Khud aankh se humne dekhi hai, batil ki shikast-e-faash yahan

Jo abr yahan se uthega, wo saare jahan par barsega

Har joo-e-rawan par barsega, har koh-e-garan par barsega

Har sard-o-saman par barsega, har dasht-o-daman par barsega

Khud apne chaman par barsega, ghairon ke chaman par barsega

Har shahr-e-tarab par garjega, har qasr-e-tarab par kadkega

Ye abr hamesha barsa hai, ye abr hamesha barsega

Ye abr hamesha barsa hai, ye abr hamesha barsega

Ye abr hamesha barsa hai, ye abr hamesha barsega

Barsegaa, Barsegaa, Barsegaaa...

A brief Biography of Asrarul Haq Majaz
In a small life of 44 years only, Asrar-ul-Haq 'Majaz', called 'keats' of Urdu literature, gave the world of Urdu poetry a great deal of compositions. 

In fact, the entire generation of that time was a victim of love; it was a victim of somebody's love. And so the Aligarh tarana came into being. Majaz died a year after it was first played.

Ismat Chugtai had once remarked to Majaz, “Girls love Majaz to such an extent that it cannot be explained.” Majaz known for his witty sense of humour replied: “But they marry rich people in their life.”

Ali Sardar Jafri has presented the life and poetry of Majaz in the serial Kehkashan, he is of the opinion that “Aligarh Muslim University ko apne jin farzando par naaz hai unme eik Asrar-ul Haq Majaz hai. Majaz ki zindagi ek adhuri ghazal thi. 

Uski shairi ka sara husn uske adhoorepan me hai. San 1930 ke aas-paas, shairi ke ufaq par eik khubsurat sitara jagmagaya, logo ne hairat aur masarrat se uski taraf dekha, lekin dekhte hi dekhte woh aasmaan par chandi ki eik lakeer banata hua guzar gaya”.

After graduation Majaz was offered a position as assistant editor of Awaaz, the newly established journal of the All India Radio.The move from Aligarh to Delhi was not as favorable as it should have been.

Majaz, who had such a large fan following of young female students at Aligarh, lost his heart to a married woman in Delhi who was his admirer.

The lady in question belonged to a wealthy reputed family and had no intentions of abandoning her well-connected husband for a penniless poet. But majaz was hopelessly in love and he wrote some of his most beautiful, romantic poems in this phase of his life:

Chalke Teri ankhon se sharab aur ziyadah

 mahkein tere ariz ke gulab aur ziyadah

 Allah kare zor-e shabab aur ziyadah (“Unka Jashn-e Salgirah”

It is very regrettable that the winner got very little life. At the age of 44, he said goodbye to this dying world. The way of their goodbye from this world was too painful and horrific. Doctors had forbidden him to drink alcohol, but where did the doctors' advice come in front of their friends? He was drinking toddy, but all of them were like poison.

It is said that on December 4, 1952, in the evening of humiliating evening, Majaz spent the night with friends on the roof of any log stand of Lucknow. The friends went crazy and drunk in there. The world was awakened on the morning of December 5, but where did the wizards live? He had interrupted this world.

मजाज़ : उर्दू शायरी का कीट्स

ऐसा मुक़ाम किसे हासिल हुआ कि गर्ल्स कॉलेज में किसी शायर के नाम की लाटरियां निकाली जाएं कि वह किसके हिस्से में पड़ता है? ऐसा कब हुआ कि किसी की कविताओं को तकिये के नीचे छिपाकर उनकी गर्मी महसूस की जाए? और कहीं अपने सुना है कि लड़कियां अपने बेटों का नाम किसी शायर के नाम पर रखने की कसमें खाएं?

दरअसल जिसके इश्क में उस दौर की समूची एक पीढ़ी शिकार थी, वह किसी और के इश्क का शिकार हो चुका था. सो जवां दिलों की आह ने कभी भी मजाज़ का पीछा न छोड़ा.उसकीबर्बदी का क़िस्सा दिल्ली में शुरू हुआ था. अलीगढ़ मुस्लिम यूनिवर्सिटी से बीए करने के बाद लाखों लड़कियों का दिल तोड़ता हुआ बड़ी-बड़ी आंखों, लंबे कद और ज़हीन शायरी करने वाला मजाज़ दिल्ली में आल इंडिया रेडियो की ओर से प्रकशित होने वाली पत्रिका ‘आवाज़’का एडिटर बन गया था. यहां वह एक ऊंचे घर वाली लड़की, जो शादी-शुदा थी, को अपना दिल दे बैठा. उसने दिल तोड़ दिया या कहें कि समाज की बदिशें आड़े आ गईं. जो भी है, इस नाकामी को लेकर जब वह अपने शहर लखनऊ आया तो साथ में शराब की लत ले आया|

The End

Treking 7000 stairs: The mysterious Living Root Double Bridge of Cherrapunji

The Treking of “The mysterious Living Root Double Bridge of Cherrapunji” was an exciting and thrilling experience for me.It was not just a tour, Just 65 kilometers from Shillong and about 12 kilometers from Cherrapunji, hidden from the bumbling travelers is a marvel of nature.

People like me, who love adventure in travelling and love to stay close to nature, breathing virgin air.This is to mention that old name of Cherrapunji is Sohra.

This trekking involves roughly around 7000 (Down + up) stairs and 2 suspension bridges on the way before reaching Nongriat’s Living Root Double Bridge. 

The path to the double-decker root bridge is 3:00 kilometers long (according to the local folks), has around 3,500 stairs, and descends 2,400 feet. It feels like you are traveling just beneath the clouds. 

Starting point at Village Tyrna

What is Living Root Double Bridge of Cherrapunji

So the day had come to see the most awaited wonder of Nature for which I had come all the way to shillong.Yes it was the day to visit the Double Decker Living Roots Bridge in Nongriat Village of cherrapunji.The mysterious Double Decker Living Roots Bridge lies amidst the dense forests. 

Wake up early in morning, hired a taxi from Police Bazar taxi stand.Finally reached Tyrana Village by around 11:00 pm, the starting point for Double Decker Living Roots bridge trek.The journey was a really picturesque one. The green landscapes, the pine trees and the water bodies were a treat to my camera. 

After reaching Tyrna Village we re-energised us with breakfast and warmed up with cup of hot tea at nearby food stall.Few boys were selling bamboo canes to be used as trekking poles, and a few locals were offering services as guides.

I bought a pole, ignored the guides and started the trek.The starting stairs were descending down amods deep and thick woods.

The trail of steps plunged further and further down. I couldn't see where I was going, apart from deeper into the forest. As I looked around, it seemed like paradise. 

I was not alone on this trail of stairs, dozen stairs ahead and behind were other adventure lover trekkers too from Japan, Holland, Malaysia and and a group of young Indian boys and girls. After a short walk up on another flight of stairs, we arrived at Nongriat village.

Nongriat Village

At Nongriat Village and Living Root Double Bridge

The double-decker bridge in the middle of a thick jungle, set right across a rumbling waterfall and over a gentle water stream, was a sight to behold. The double-decker root bridge Aaah! Like something from a fairytale.

The first view mesmerised me. It felt as though I had arrived in paradise, with chirping birds. The water was so clear, cool and fresh and it was enticing me for relaxing dip.

The root bridge was undoubtedly remarkable, its surroundings felt like a place where magic happens. There were waterfalls and natural swimming pools, clusters of huge brightly colored butterflies, mysterious sounds of the forest.

A small butterfly  landed on my hand,and stayed there for a couple of minutes to relax. I was part of that miraculous alchemy of intoxication in  lap of mother nature.

A small tea shop right next to the bridge was just perfect to have a cup of hot tea and steaming Maggi before I reluctantly winded my way up. Ahh, I so didn’t want to go back. 

It is quite natural to feel like this in the middle of nature, completely off the grid, where one can unburden the stresses of daily life and try to find a rhythm between self & nature.

I remained mesmerized the whole way.When I reached the top, it was just 4:30 p.m. I felt oddly alive, cleansed and purified. 

Written and posted by Engr Maqbool Akram, with help of net and photos are from sources with thanks

Travelogue:Chasing Abode of Clouds from Shillong to Cherapunji

As a student all of us has read that Cherrapunji, located at an altitude level of 1484 meters (4869
ft) is the wettest place in the world.Since then Cherrapunji was alive in my dreams.Travelling of Shillong is considered to be incomplete without a visit of mystique Cherrapunji.There are plenty of places to visit in between shillong and Cherrapunji, rich with fall off the mountains in thunderous waterfalls, abundant with forests, natural caves, and a thriving flora and fauna.

Cherrapunji-Abode in Clouds

Truly Cherrapunji is abode on clouds, paradise on earth and the home of indigenous tribes and exotic cultures.It was our third day in Shillong and Cherrapunji was still to explore. I was very excited, keen to find Cherrapunji of my dreams: hills, fern, orchid and low cloud. The sights and match my imagination.

On way from Shillong to Cherrapunji

We hired innova taxi for sightseeing tour on this route. This journey from Shillong to Cherrapunji was one of the most beautiful experiences in my life. We crossed the deep mist of clouds, sunny clear sky and many more. Roads were quite good and wide. We enjoyed full panroming view points and spots throughout the travel.

The flat lands dramatically start becoming different as we get closer to Cherrapunjee. Initially you get to see hills where rocks and stones are being mined and that landscape gives way to thickly forested hills.

1. Mawkdok valley (Lush green valley)

First stop during Shillong-Cherrapunji mid way a lush green valley.Waterfall and river can be enjoyed by going down 500+downstairs. Mawkdok Valley left me speechless with its beauty! This valley is charming and the serenity surrounding this place will completely blow your mind.

Mawkdok Valley-Zip Lining

Extremely green with the dense plantation that stretches across the entire highway. When I reached here, the entire valley was covered with clouds, making it heavenly to look at.

Mawkdok valley is famous for Zip-Lining. It is one of the finest places to Zip-line in India. One can Zipline at a height of 500 Feet and enjoy the Bird’s eye view of the valley.

2. Wah kaba falls

This fall was our second stop.Wah- The waterfall drops from a steep rocky side and plunges hundreds of meters down to a gorge. The water flowing through the falls is crystal clear.Situated right on the road side; it is easily accessible and needs a short hike to reach the waterfall viewpoint. Visitors can even go to the edge of the waterfall where one can see some safety barriers in place to prevent accidents

Wah Kaba Fall

One should be careful standing on top of the waterfall as well, it's very windy everywhere. There is also a smaller waterfall on the way to the much bigger Wah-kaba.The waterfall drops from a steep rocky side and plunges hundreds of meters down to a gorge. This tiered fall is close to 170-190 m in height. You will have a steep climb down the hill across uneven steps to reach the waterfall.

Situated right on the road side, it is easily accessible and needs a short hike to reach the waterfall viewpoint. Visitors can even go to the edge of the waterfall where one can see some safety barriers in place to prevent accidents. 

A legendary story about Wah kaba falls

This waterfall has a legendary story. In the past there lived two fairies in this Waterfall- one black and one white. Sometimes on a market day, one will see these fairies at Sohra Market shopping like ordinary people carrying basket to keep their belongings. 

Most of the people in the market cannot recognize them but for those who can differentiate, they can easily recognize them because they have no shadow of their own. 

These fairies used to hypnotize the people coming in contact with them. In the past most of the young men disappeared from home and returned after two to three month and it was believed that they were married. A lot of people still believe the legend.

3- Arwah lumshynnora Caves : These caves left usyou spellbound. The cave has a narrow entry and boasts of magical scenery inside, surrounded by the thick forest, an absolute treat for adventure.The cave itself is significantly large, but only a small part of it has been opened for tourists.

 It is about 300 meters which takes 20 minutes to explore. It is very dark and creepy inside especially when crawling through the narrow tunnels. There are many chambers and narrow passages in the cave. There is also a stream flows inside the cave.

There are two paths to reach the cave from the parking area, one is rugged trail and other is pleasant walk. It takes around 15-20 minutes to reach the cave entrance.It is advisable to carry a pocket torch as the lighting inside the cave is not sufficient.

The continuous water dripping ambience gives the tourist a certain sense of fear in the pitch dark recesses of the caves.

If artificial lights are not in Caves, it is pitch dark and can be very scary, even during the day. Even with lights on, it is a scary experience for each and every Visitor.

 4. Nohkalikai falls

Nohkalikai Falls is the tallest plunge waterfall in India.Its height is 1115 Feet. This fall is about 55 km away from Shillong towards Cherrapunji.The falls fed by rainwater is tremendously powerful as much majestic.

There is no proper road to the bottom of the falls, but at least you get to see the waterfall a bit closer. The water gushes fiercely to the bottom creating a roar that is heard much before reaching the fall. We were mesmerised by the far off villages that appeared like hamlets from a fairy tale. The colour of the water flowing from the fall was something unique. It was bluish green,the view of this falls is absolutely breathtaking, it is definitely one of the most photogenic falls in India.

Nohkalikai Fall

A legendary story of Nohkalikai Fall

The story goes something like this--–Nohkalikai literally means ‘jump of Likai’. Once upon a time, there was a woman named Likai who lived in a village called Rangjyrteh. Upon the death of her husband, she had to ferry goods to Sylhet to support her young daughter. The village people suggested her to remarry as the child needed a father and so she did. But the stepfather turned out to be so jealous of all the attention that his wife gave to her daughter that one day, when Likai was out working, he chopped the daughter into pieces and cooked her meat.

When Likai came back, she didn’t find her daughter and assumed that she must be out with her father or neighbours. Likai was hungry and could smell the aroma of freshly cooked meat coming from the kitchen. She ate a good meal not knowing what it was.

The truth dawned upon her when she discovered severed remains of a child’s fingers in her house. She was overwhelmed by anguish and couldn’t accept that she had feasted on her own daughter. She ran out of the house and jumped into the falls. Nohkalikai literally means ‘jump of Likai’.

5. Seven sister falls

Seven sisters falls, has seven segments. This is the fourth highest waterfall in India, plunging down a height of 315 metres (1,033 ft) over the top of limestone cliffs of the East Khasi Hills in Cherrapunji.The falls are made up of many different falls and form a curtain of water falling down steeply from a cliff.

Seven streams fall from a hill into the gorge offering grace to the scented wild surrounding it. The sight and sound were captivating. The falls is poem-like-fantasy and along with the silent hills that kiss the seemingly low cloud offer an impacting picture. On way to this all there are small tea stalls where you can also get boiled eggs,Maggie,pav bhaji, pineapple, some snacks tea and mineral water.

Eco Park

6. Eco park

A large "Eco Park" established by the Meghalaya government in the plateau, at a distance of 3 km from Cherrapunji Bus Stand which hosts several hybrid and indigenous orchids in the Green House donated by Shillong Agri-Horticultural Society.The Eco Park offers breathtaking view of distant Sylhet Plains of neighbouring Bangladesh. The natural beauty from the edge of the Eco Park is truly startling.

This park has parking, entry and camera charges. It is moderate size park and also offers swing for adults.Situated near Seven Sister Waterfalls, it is one of the popular and must visit places in Cherrapunji. It has a small canteen,where tourists can get food stuffs (Thali food),tea snacks bottled water,but most of times it remains crowdy.

Eco Park facing Planes of Bangladesh

We watched the Sun go down in the hill, the signal to return back.Thus ended one of our best trip’s while we headed for Shillong. By the time we reached our hotel, we were exhausted yet energized; we had breathed the untouched undiluted, glimpsed the elegance and felt the frenzy of raw nature all together. Overall it was a really thrilling and mystique trip. This trip was a “Chasing Abode of Clouds from Shillong to Cherrapunjee”.

Written, photographed and posted by Engr Maqbool Akram