Story of Cursed Abandoned Village Kuldhara in Deserts of Jaisalmer

Follow me as I am going to explore the haunted, abandoned and cursed village Kuldhara at a distance of 65 Km in deserts of Jaisalmer.Jeep was passing on dusty road with sand duens on both sides.After one hour travelling, I was at entrance gate to ruined Kuldhara village which stands desolate and an uncanny silence prevails all around.

Jeep driver Jogendra was my guide.Today all that remains are huge heaps of bricks and the odd tourist who weaves through the silent, dusty lanes of this once lively settlement. This village was abandoned by its people 200 years ago.

Legends and stories are a wonderful way to attract visitors to a place.A curse and haunting Story is a sure way to get visitors to that place.

I was in Jaisalmer and seeing Salim Sigh ki Haveli built in 1815 by Salim Singh, the prime minister of the kingdom when Jaisalmer was the capital. My guide told, that Salim Singh was not a soft and kind hearted.  Actually He was Zalim, a cruel man of his time.

Guide narrated a fairy tale-like story of how Kuldhara came to be abandoned, cursed and haunted; forgotten, and then discovered after almost 2 centuries. It was a story that was fascinating in every aspect!

Love has power to win the world.One can bestow his enemy with love. Contrary to it, love for lust is such a volcano which burn all in its way.Destruction and only destruction.

This blog is on that love and a curse which destroyed the village Kuldhara Beyond the fort and the sand dunes, the folk tunes and the camel safaris.

The Legend---Cruel Salim Singh-Prime Minister of Jaisalmer

Love has power to win the world.One can bestow his enemy with love. Contrary to it, love for lust is such a volcano which burn all in its way.Destruction and only destruction.

The Maharaja of Jaisalmer was only a titular head of the state at this period, and the Diwan (Prime Minister)-Salim Singh, was the most powerful authority.He had the actual power which he misused to the fullest extend. According to native folklore, Salim Singh, was well known for his lecherous eye, and evil disposition.

On day his eyes fell on a beautiful girl, who was most probably the daughter of the chief of Kuldhara. Enchanted by her beauty, he asked to marry her, but his proposal was refused by the chief as the Diwan was from a lower caste.

The Diwan was furious and gives a 24-hour ultimatum to the girl’s father to change his mind or else…continuously tormented by him and faces his threats of extracting multiple taxes from the villagers.The brave, self-respecting village folks unanimously took the decision. They packed up all their belongings, abandoned their homes and left Kuldhara overnight.

The brave, self-respecting village folks unanimously took the decision. They packed up all their belongings, abandoned their homes and left Kuldhara overnight.

The Paliwal Brahmins Settled in Kulhada

The Paliwal Brahmins were natives of Pali.Depressed by the oppressive ruler of Pali; they migrated to the area of Kuldhara in the then state of Jaisalmer in 1291. It is believed that each new Paliwal family was gladly received into the 84 villages nearby Kuldhara with a brick and a gold coin from every other family in the village. The brick was used to build a house while the gold was used to start a business or a farm.

 Kuldhara was an excellent township, pretty big, well planned with structured settlements, and straight-wide streets which ran in grids with houses on either side. There were about 600 households in the village, most of which were double storeyed, well designed and aesthetic, most probably designed to avoid heat storms of the desert.

Paliwal Brahmins left village Kuldhara to remain inhibited and cursed.

However, before they left, they cursed that the village would remain uninhabited for times immemorial and those who attempt to dwell in these villages shall be death. If anybody tried to dig out their wealth and belongings, they would live to regret their act and suffer.

As the whole community moved out, their hearts were filled with sorrow, and the thought of inhumanity and atrocities increased their pain and suffering. Many years before, human skeletons were found scattered in an alley off the road. It is also believed that the Paliwals left their villages in 1825 on the day of Raksha Bandhan. To mourn the unfateful event, they do not celebrate the festival anymore.

That curse stays till date because the town is barren and uninhabited.

The houses are almost in the same condition as they were left behind by their inhabitants. As I climb up the steps of one such home, I can see the entire expanse of the village. Lanes and brick homes, equidistant from each other, are neatly laid out.

Now this village Kuldhara is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India as a heritage site. As the sun sets across the sand dunes, the gates of Kuldhara are closed by the locals of the neighbouring villages.

But how a bog population of Kuldhara vanished in a single night, with no one noticing them remains a mystery. The dull fate of this village and story behind its walls still haunts many.

Travelogue of Guwahati: The Door to Seven Sisters Paradise

Traveling has always been my tempting weakness.This time to break out of the monotonous grinding lifestyle,I decided to explored the tranquility, beauty, calm, and the purest form of nature in,“The Paradise of Assam and Meghalaya”.Our first stop was Guwahati:The door to seven sisters Paradise.North East owing to its rich natural beauty and the fact that it hasn’t yet become a commercial tourist-choked destination. Guwahati, except Sikkim, is the door to all the North Eastern States of Tripura, Mizoram, Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Meghalaya and Nagaland.

We landed by an Indigo Flight at Guwahati airport at around 3.30 PM.At Air port I booked ,from pre hired taxi counter for our guest house.The counter boy charged Rs 300/=for destination.To our surprise the distance was hardly 3.8 Km and we reached there within 15 minutes.We were cheated by “pre hired taxi counter boy”.

I must mention that the people of North East India have been demanding for two time zones for India, from a long time. We, from the rest of India don’t understand this much. But soon after landing at Guwahati, I realized how just and true their demand is. It was dark by 5 pm and pitch dark a little bit later.

Whenever one plans a trip to North East, one must keep in mind that the sun sets here around two hours before the rest of the country.It is said that North East is wet ,due to an early Sun set in comparison to rest of India.

After getting energized with tea and some snacks, we were ready to explore City life of Guwahati by night.Taxi driver stopped in Paltan bazar.

Palton Bazaar of Guwahati

While roaming on streets of Guwahati, I realized that it is not a small town, but fairly big and growing. Real estate business seemed to be booming like any other city in India. The city lies in the plains of Assam sandwiched between the hills of Meghalaya on one side and the mighty Brahmaputra on the other side, leaving it without much room to grow.

One of the busiest market places of Guwahati, Paltan Bazaar is one place you cannot escape as a traveler. Home to Guwahati railway station and the bus terminal.Paltan Bazaar is also known for its row of hotels guest houses, and big mallas.This place always remais crowded.

 Due to the railway station and the bus terminal, Paltan Bazar is one place in Guwahati that never sleeps. North eastern tribal garments and articles made of clay and wood in the roadside establishments. Paltan Bazar is home to many restaurants and dhabas serving Indian and Chinese food items and you will never feel the hunger pangs after all the walking and haggling.

With strong influences from its neighbouring states and countries, Assam has developed some unique foods that you rarely find anywhere else in India.You’ll find Tibetan-, Burmese- and even Bangladeshi-inspired dishes at street food stalls all over Assam, and even some very interesting indigenous recipes.

Kamakhya Temple  

We were ready for whole day roaming in Guwahati.Guwahati is dotted with a number of ancient temples.The most famous among these is the Kamakhya Temple. Kamakhya is the renowned Goddess of Desire whose famous shrine is in the heart of Nilachal Hill.Kamakhya temple is considered most sacred and oldest of the 51 Shakti Peethas on earth.It is the centrepiece of widely practiced, powerful Tantrik Shaktism cult in India. The temple sits atop the Nilachal Hill about 800 ft above sea level.

The approach road to Kamakhya Temple was filled with colorful products that commercialise religion. Whether they result in devotion and peace, I do not know, but they did result in great photo subjects for my camera.

The Nilachal hill believed to be a 'Khasi' sacrificial site earlier, now has a group of ancient temples on the top; the largely eminent of them is the Kamakhya temple. The temple of Goddess Shakti or Kamakhya is the oldest and most revered centre for Shakti worship leading to the spread of the Tantrik Hinduism sect.

Legend has it that this is the spot ‘where Sati used to retire in secret to satisfy her passion with Shiva, and it was also the place where her yoni fell after Shiva danced with the corpse of Sati.The middle chamber leads to the sanctum sanctorum of the temple in the form of a cave, which consists of no image but a natural underground spring that flows through a yoni-shaped cleft in the bedrock.’ 

Traditionally, it is believed that prayers accompanied by the sacrifice of an animal tend to get heard better…so a courting couple prays with a pigeon offering:

And so the population around the temple, included pigeons and goats and buffaloes amidst bridal groups, colorful priests, tantrics–making it a visual treat and friendly to camera.

Umananda Island (Peacock Island)

Next ride was for Umananda Island (Peacock Island), the smallest river island in the midst of river Brahmaputra flowing through the city of Guwahati.The British named the island Peacock Island for its structure. Umananda Temple is a late 17th century Shiva Temple located at Peacock Island in middle of river Brahmaputra.

 Hired three wheeler dropped us at Kachari Ghats behind the high court and the planetarium. We find our way to the ferry dock for a ride to Peacock Island.I involved myself in mesmerizing charm of Brahmaputra river scenery.After a 15 minutes ride we touched the rocks of island.I ascended over rocky stepped top of hill. Brahmaputra River was flowing below the hill, High court building was visible from here and breathtaking scenery.

It is not surprising that so many people find their way here to experience the sublime tranquility of the place. Love is in the air, perhaps it is an effect of the arrow of love Kamdev shot on Shiva to make him fall in love again. Many couples visit the island in search of some solace. Others enjoy the unmatched beauty of the island from the river banks of the city.

Mythology Umananda Island
According to mythology, Shiva created the island for his wife Parvati's happiness and pleasure. Shiva is said to have resided here in the form of Bhayananda. According to a myth, Shiva burnt Kamadeva with his third eye on Umananda when he interrupted Shiva's deep meditation.

According to the Kalika Purana, it was believed that Goddess Urvashi, who brought nectar for the pleasure of Kamakhya, resided here. Therefore, the island on which this temple is constructed is also known as Urvashi Island.

A walk along river Brahamputra

Th One of the most sought after sightseeing activity in Guwahati is to enjoy a walk along River Brahamputra.It seems impossible to visit this city and yet not lose yourself for a few minutes by the majestic Brahmaputra River. Typically, a lot of people start their day at the banks of the river while sipping chai or energising with a fresh workout. 

Statue of Ahom general Lachit Borphukan with soldiers and cannons. built over a concrete pedestal in Brahmaputra

A 35-feet-high statue of Ahom General Lachit Borphukan is erected in the middle of the Brahmaputra near Machkhowa in Guwahati. The soldiers and the cannons are made of fiberglass. The total size of the pedestal on which the statues rest is 12 by 12 by 1.5 meters and it stands on a well 8.5 meters wide. The main statue stands four feet above the pedestal while the soldiers are placed below Lachit.The pedestal is placed five meters above the High Flood Level (HFL) of the river and 50 meters below water.

Lachit Borphukan (1622-1672) was the Commander-In-Chief in the famous battle of Saraighat.

He refused to let the Mughals rule the North-East. He saved Ahom kingdom from Mughals. A greatest warrior in the history of North East India. The Mughal army had been assigned from Dhaka and had set up a camp on the north bank of the Brahmaputra at Hajo, now in Kamrup district of lower Assam.

Much weaker, the Ahom Army defeated the Mughal Army by brilliant uses of the terrain, clever diplomatic negotiations to buy time, guerrilla tactics, psychological warfare, military intelligence and by exploiting the sole weakness of the Mughal forces—its navy.

2^nd River Brahmaputra Art Festival’ to showcase artists from 25 countries

At some distance from Alfresco Park on bank of river Brahmaputra,where I was walking, heard musical band with a  large gathering.As per curiosity,I walked there.I was amused that a grand occasion was there: 2nd River Brahmaputra Art Festival’ to showcase artists from 25 countries was going on.I  loaded my camera to capture that moment.It was showcase illustrious artists from at least 25 countries. 

The 39 year-old young Indian artist who displayed his art works in various national and international exhibitions said, “It took years to expose my creative soul to the world audience. Besides attending exhibition in different festivals, River Brahmaputra Art Festival is a sort of dream comes true with a unique feeling and emotions. 

Deka studied fine art in Khairagarh, Chhattisgarh. After finishing his course he shifted to Mumbai in search of a better platform. Poverty instills fear, stress and sometimes depression; strained childhood pushed him to make extra effort in life. Deka has been flourished with experiences participating exhibitions held in London, New York city, Moscow, Bhutan, Nepal, Maldives, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Egypt.

By Sun Set, this traveling to Guwahati:”The Door to Seven Sisters Paradise” was near to end.I was short in time, only on day for Guwahati as next destination was Shillong.It is not possible to explore the charm and beauty of Guwahati in one day.

For travellers who love nature and adventure, Guwahati is an ideal place and has much places to visit, some of these are: Deepor Beel Wildlife Sanctuary. Saraighat Bridge. Assam State Zoo, Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary, Tea gardens, Alfresco Grand cruise in mighty Brahmaputra River.

Travelogue of Guwahati: The Door to Seven Sisters Paradise, written, photographed and posted by Engr Maqbool Akram with help of Wikipedia and materials available on net with thanks.

Moomal and Rano: A love story that blossomed in Thar deserts

I was in Jaisalmer Fort with guide, who was telling me the glorious past of this fort.A question flashed in my mind and asked him “Jaisalmer is situated in Thar Desert. Is there any legendary love story “He promptly replied yes there is a story of Moomal andRano.Wow: I got a new story to share with readers, my friends.

So I am posting this legendary love story of Moomal and Rano , as narrated by the guide.This story is of that time when the great India was one subcontinent.It dates back to sixteenth century.During that period this area was known as Sindh province, the two cities “UMER KOT’ now in PAKISTAN and; JAISALMER” in INDIA.

In India it is called a love story of Rajasthan, in Pakistan it is known as a love story of Sindh. Rano is now sung during mehfils of Pakistan. It is most frequently requested musical piece in a mehfil of kafi genre.

Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai (1689 – 1752).A noted Sindhi Sufi scholar, mystic, saint, and poet, widely considered to be the greatest Muslim poet of the Sindhi language.He has also compiled love story of Mumal and Ranoin his collection of poems” Shah Jo Risalo”-- or Poetry of Shah. This is one of the most popular tragic romances from Sindh, Pakistan.

Introduction of main characters of this story.

1. Moomal Rathore:--She was a legendary gorgeous and intelligent princess. Living in Kak Palace, weaved on a web of magic. Built in village Ludarva (Jaisalmer-India).

2. Rano Mahendro:- A minister in royal court of Umerkot (now in Pakistan)

3. Soomal:-- Sister of moomal.Soomal was too beautiful but most cleavers.

4. Hamir Soomro:--He was ruler of Umerkot (now in Pakistan)

During sixteenth century in the Sukkar district of Sindh near Mirpur Mathelo (Now in Pakistan). Gujjar chieftains Nand used to rule over that area.He had nine daughters but amongst all Moomal was most beautiful and Soomal was most clever. 

And Love Story Starts As-----Mumal was an extremely beautiful Rajput girl whose beauty and charms were famous not only in Jaisalmer but also far and wide. She wanted to marry someone who would win her heart with his bravery and intelligence. Mumal, along with her seven sisters and attendants would weave a web of magic in Kak Mahal to test them. Several kings and princes tried their luck but in vain.

The reputation of this palace and of Mumal’s dazzling beauty soon became a legend. Once Rana Mahendra Sodha, the ruler of UmerKot in Sindh (now in Pakistan), reached the banks of the river while hunting. He too was attracted by the magical Kak. From the window of her palace Mumal saw Mahendra and his friend resting by the river bank, so she sent water and some refreshments for them. She invited them to rest in the palace till next morning.

Like others, Mahendra also had to cross the labyrinths and other hurdles to reach the palace. He was an intelligent and courageous man which led him to succeed in reaching the palace, unharmed. Mumal was very impressed and decided to accept him as her consort. Mahendra spent the night at the palace and returned to Umer Kot in the morning.

Eventually their love blossomed. Mahendra found a camel which was fast enough to cover long distance from Umer Kot to Kak & back in few hours. Each night Cheetal, the camel, used to take him to spend time with Mumal and they would return to Umer Kot by dawn. He could not keep his mind off Mumal and would keep humming “हाले नी मूमल म्हारी अमराणे रे देश” (Come with me to my Umer Kot, Oh Mumal).

One day, when Mahendra’s family got to know of his love for Mumal, they ordered to break the legs of Cheetal. That night another camel was arranged for him by his friends. The camel was not as fast and experienced as Cheetal. Mahendra didn’t have any option and started his journey. After a while he whipped the camel in order to make her go fast. The camel started running. In the dark Mahendra couldn’t figure out the direction and the result was that he reached Barmer instead of Jaisalmer.

At the same time at Medhi, Mumal kept waiting for Mahendra and started playing games with her sisters. One of her sisters Sumal dressed like a man. Time passed and they were tired and sleepy. Sumal slept in man’s attire with Mumal on her bed.

At Barmer, on realizing his mistake, Mahendra raced towards Jaisalmer and when he reached Kak Mahal, he mistook Sumal as Mumal’s paramour. Disgusted, he left his riding cane besides Mumal’s bed and returned to Umer Kot. He was highly distraught that Mumal had cheated on him.

Mumal pleaded Mahendra to forgive her but he ignored her requests. To prove her innocence, Mumal set a fire and jumped in it. When Mahendra came to know of this, he rushed to the place where Mumal was already in flames; he joined her to be consumed by the fire along with Mumal.

And that was the end of a fervent legendary love story of Mumal and Rano that blossomed in thar Deserts. It is said: Death does not kill love, nor do prisons prevent love!

Posted by Engr Maqbool Akram with help of story available on net and photos are also from sources of net with thanks.