This was our fourth day in Mumbai, the city of dreams
that often ends up with distress. Filth, pollution, city bustle, and the
rush-hour traffic add to the woes of the daily road commuters.
The travel bug inside me seeks not the normal, but the
extraordinary.So we decided to explore the tranquillity, beauty, calm, and the
purest form of nature in Murud-Janjira.
Murud-Janjira is situated on an island just off the
coastal town of Murud, in the Raigad district of Maharashtra, India at a
distance of about 165 km.
Murud Janjira is
the only unconquered fort on the western coastline of India. What makes this
Fort remarkable is that it is actually 3 kms away from the coast on the Arabian
Sea.
This fort is the best place for history
enthusiasts and photography lovers. During its prime, the island fort boasted
572 cannons.
After a pleasant and enjoyable six hours taxi ride on
decent roads, we were at Murud. I had made reservations at the Golden Swan
Beach Resort, which has a variety of rooms and cottages.
Other option is simpler Maharashtra Tourism
Development Corporation (MTDC) rooms and cottages. An interesting stay would be
with residents who have rooms and shacks on rent.No matter where you choose to stay;
the beach is just a few minutes’ walk away.
The Golden Swan Resort is on the beach itself, and
even as we entered it, the sun was readying to set over the vast expanse of the
sea, right ahead. The beach is fringed with betel and palm trees and all around
in Murud.
The next day began with a wonderful sunrise that
entered my room through the window.After breakfast it seemed like everyone in
the resort was headed to the village of Rajpuri, which is 5 km away from Murud.
Once there, we get close into sailboats that would
take us to the fort. I had to wait my turn patiently in a long queue. Every
sailboat comes equipped with self-appointed guides
As we proceeded to sail across to the fort, our guide
told us that many Sidi families lived within the boundaries of the fort up till
1972. When the fort began decaying these families moved out. The heirs of the
Sidi royalty of Janjira now live mostly in Mumbai or Indore but do visit
Janjira sometimes.
In the middle of our chatting the fort appeared into
view; a 40 feet tall, magnificent structure, fighting the relentless battering of
the Arabian Sea all around it even today.
Ticket is 20 Rs per person. The same boat-wallah acts
as a guide and shows the important points with brief history in 45 minutes for
20 more rupees.
Took some 20 mins for the boat to reach to the
entrance. Actually a marvellous architecture!! The fort is built such that
unless you come very close to it you cannot make out where its entrance is.
As boat loads
of people embarked, guide continued: the fort took 22 years to build and is
spread over 22 acres of land. At the entrance is an inscription in Persian and
a stone carving depicting a tiger engulfed by six elephants which, is the
emblem of the might of the Sidis.
The necessities of one age are the wonders of another!
That is precisely the feeling I had when I saw Janjira Fort, standing proud and
undefeated in the Arabian Sea.
The fort is crescent shaped, with several arches. In
the heydays, there were 500 cannons mounted on these arches; only three are
left today.
Inside the fort walls are the ruins of a masjid, and a
palace and bath with water channelled from streams, telling of ancient times
when royal ladies occupied the quarters.
The deep well with cold and sweet
water—a wonder of nature in the midst of the saline sea—still provides water to
quench the thirst of the weary visitor.
Gazing into the
horizon from the parapets of this magnificent fort overlooking the sea, one
cannot but acknowledge its great strength that withstood a number of invasions.
The Fort of Janjira on the sea
is the only one of its kind. Janjira Jal-durg (sea fort) was constructed by
Malik Amber, an Abyssinian minister in the service of the Sultan of Ahmednagar,
who belonged to the famous Nizamshahi dynasty, is almost entirely intact even
today, despite the ravages of wind and tide, a testimony to the marvels of
ancient engineering.
The fort, built at the end of the 15th Century, is
almost entirely intact even today, despite the ravages of wind and tide, a
testimony to the marvels of ancient engineering. Murud-Janjira fort was attacked
by the Marathas, Portuguese, and Britishers.
Instead of so many
attacks throughout the time, it remains unconquered and remains successful to
establish the Janjira sultanate.
Surprisingly, not even Shivaji
could acquire it despite 13 expeditions to conquer the fort.
According to all accounts, the sea fort of Janjira
could not be conquered by any of the kings ruling the neighbouring territories.
His son, Sambhaji, tried a unique approach to capture
the fort: digging an underwater tunnel to enter. But he too failed in his
attempt. Not to be frightened, Sambhaji constructed another fort just across
the bay, called Kansa.
Most of the earth that was dug up to build the tunnel
was used in the making of this second fort, which was to be the base for future
attacks on the sea fort of Janjira. This fort took 22 years to build and is
constructed on 22 acres of land.
The fort is oval shaped instead of the usual oblong or
square shape. The fort wall is about 40 feet high and has 19 rounded porches or
arches, some of which still have cannons mounted on them, including the famous
cannon 'Katlal Bhankari'.
These cannons were largely responsible for repelling
oncoming enemies from the sea. Inside the fort walls, the ruins of a masjid, a
palace and bath with water channelled from streams, tell of ancient times when
royal ladies occupied the quarters.
The deep well with cold and sweet water - a wonder of
nature in the midst of the saline sea, still provides water to quench the
thirst of the weary visitor.
On the ramparts
nearby there are cannons of metal, which still are in better condition. It has
been discovered that there were 572 cannons on the fort in 1669. There are 22
bastions, on many of which such cannons are seen.
Even today these have stood the test of time and are
in a good condition. It takes about 2-2 ½ hrs. to see the fort.
Gazing into the horizon from the ramparts of this magnificent fort overlooking the sea, one cannot but acknowledge its great strength that withstood a number of invasions. This invincible fort remained unconquered until it became part of Indian Territory after Independence from British in 1947.
Other
attractions for history buffs include the Palace of the Nawab. This luxurious
cliff-top mansion built by the former Nawab of Janjira commands a panoramic
view of the Arabian Sea and the Janjira sea fort.
Then there are the Janjira Caves, while nature lovers
will enjoy Murud, the erstwhile capital of the state of Janjira. Murud is
actually a tiny fishing village atop a small hillock with a heart-stopping view
of the coast, with mile after mile of soft silvery sand.
The beaches of Kashid and Nandgaon with their
whispering casuarina, coconut and betel palms are a balm for the weary city
dweller.
As we go from Murud to Rajpuri, the southernmost point
of Murud-Janjira city, we get a grand view of Janjira. It cannot be seen from
the main beach.
The fort that is seen from here is Padmadurg, built by
Shivaji as a counterpart to Janjira. As we go nearer, we come to know the
hugeness of the fort. The entrance to the fort faces the east.
Ferryboats from Rajpuri village halt at the entrance
door of the fort. Inscription in Persian on a white stone near the door can be
clearly seen.
Rock carvings on both sides of the entrance are of
Gajant Lakshmi. A can be seen on the Mahadwar of the fort take you to a place
where Cannons are kept. The biggest of them is named ‘Kalad Bangdi’.
Janjira came
into prominence in the late 15th or early 16th century when the Sidi's became
its virtual masters.
After it had been ruled over by such historical greats
as the Mauryas, Silharas, Chalukyas, and Yadavas, it fell into the hands of the
Abyssinians or Siddis in 1490 A.D, by way of trickery against a Koli king.
Malik Ambar, a powerful Abyssinian, subsequently
constructed a strong stone fort there in 1567 A.D. numerous wars were waged
against the Siddis by the Marathas, Mughals, and Portuguese to wrest Janjira
from them, but in vain.
The Sidis proved fiercer soldiers and greater sea
farers than them all. The Janjira state came to an end after 1947 with the
merging of princely Indian states with the union.
Finally sometime in 1970s the Nawab of
Janjira handed over the fort to Indian Govt and he settled in his palace in
Murud (which is still there and his generations are living there). Other people
from the fort also vacated and left for living in nearby villages like Rajpuri.
Siddi Palace Murud-Janjira
Spread over a vast land of more than 45 acres, Siddi
Palace, also known as Nawab Palace, is one of most visited destinations of
Raigad District in the state of Maharashtra. With a distinct architectural
style representing a mix of Gothic as well as Mughal approaches, the Siddi
Palace is one of a kind.
Though not open for public as it is still owned by the
descendants of the Nawab of Janjira, many tourists still stop by the place to
take photographs of this architectural marvel.
Siddi Palace is located to the left of Revdanda-Murd
road and can be encountered just before entering Murud. It was actually built
by the Nawab of Janjira and was intended for administration purposes.
The palace is historic of architectural importance,
however, it is not owned by the government and is still under the control of
Nawab’s heirs and is considered as a private property.
The palace was
vacated in the year 1885 as the Nawab of Janjira decided to move into his
Ahmedganj palace. Standing tall in its own unique style, Siddi Palace is built
on the edge of a mountain and offers breath taking views of the great Arabian
Sea as well as the entire Murud village.
The royal family of Janjira was Sidis, also known as
'Habshi', assumed to be from Abyssinia.
Initially
the rulers of the state held the title of 'Wazir', but after 1803 the title of
'Nawab' was officially recognized by the British Raj. They were entitled to an
11 gun salute by the British authorities following the independence of India in
1947; the state was merged with India.
Finally sometime in 1970s the Nawab of
Janjira handed over the fort to Indian Govt and he settled in his palace in
Murud (which is still there and his generations are living there). Other people
from the fort also vacated and left for living in nearby villages like Rajpuri.
There are a number of auto-rickshaws, taxis and
private buses available to reach the Nawab Palace or Murud's Durbar Road from
Roha railway station.
Tourists that come to Murud to visit places like Murud
Janjira Fort, Padmadurga (Kasa) Fort, Garambi Dam, Korlai Fort, and Kude Caves,
often stop by the Siddi palace to click a few frames of the exotic Arabian Sea
and the stunning aerial views of the Murud village.
Konkani seafood has
to be the food of choice in Murud, though it’s often spicy.
A thali makes for the perfect mixture of delicious
regional dishes like 7 vegetables, Chapatti, Sweet, Dal, Rice, Buttermilk,
Papad and मोदक.
Food Stalls in Murud have good seafood (jhinga curry
and masala fish being two options) and also local vegetarian curries. The
stalls and eateries on the beach also offer mouth-watering batata vada,
pakodas, bhel and
The End
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