Itinerary of Lucknow: The City of Nawabs, Tunday Kababi (First Day)

Lucknow mujh par fida main fida-e-Lucknow

Allah Jane kitni kashish Lucknow men hai

This is narration of first day, walk on roads of Lucknow.

After a decade, I an itinerant was in Lucknow the city of Nawabs famous for its tahzeeb, culture, mannerism, traditions and the most famous cuisine Tunday Kababi. After a decade, I was in Lucknow.

Till now million and million tons of water had flown away in Gomti, and Lucknow had witnessed the hurling crowns of various Political parties. Recently: The city was crowned with Metro Rail Project.

Char Baagh-Railway Station of Lucknow

My first impression was not good. Garbage and rubbish waste items were boiling on Road and in drains too. It may be due to recently constructed Metro Ril project and its over bridge. Aalam Baagh Bus stand was converted into Metro Rail station.

From Charbagh bus stand, hired a rickshaw for Charbagh Railway station, where a retiring room was already reseved for me. After a shower I was ready to move to look the bygone era of Nawabi daur of Lucknow.

I was shocked, while on road just at a distance of few yards from beautiful Charbagh Railway station.There was Metro Rail station and metro over bridge passing over main road. This was a heavily crowded, noisy and full of uncontrolled traffic even difficult to breathe fresh air.

Vidhan Sabha

First destination was Grand building of Vidhan Sabha. Here I clicked some beautiful pictures. The beauty of this building was under shadow of Metro works.

Its foundation stone was laid by the then Governor Sir Spencer Harcourt Butler in 1922 and completed in 1928.It is said that at that time it costed Rs 21 Lac.

From here I decided to walk on foot up to Hazratganj. As moved further, encountered the same disciplined traffic, the grand beautiful buildings along road side were looking me haunted,the same garbage and dust.

Heavy earth moving machines and technical staff were busy in Metro work.I found the same position on roads of Hazrat Ganj too.

Destruction and destruction.My mind whispered to my heart: “Every act of creation is first an act of destruction. The way to create an art is to burn and destroy”.

New Lucknow was in womb of time. Definitely “When completed, it would bloom its glory on getting back its older look”.

GPO Complex of Lucknow

I was near GPO Complex of Lucknow, where I looked statue of Father of Nation Mahatma Gandhi. An arch surrounds this statue with a stairway on each of its four sides. 

To my surprise, I found this park was crowded with heavy Police force, which broke down my pleasure to enjoy the peaceful greenery in a chaotic road crossing at Hzarat Ganj.

I was in a mood to sit on bench lying under cool shadow of trees.Left soon this place after some photography.

Shaahi Masjid in Hazrat Ganj

Hay-ya alas Salah--- Hay-ya alal Falah (حي على الصلاة حي على الفلاح)  (Rush to prayer - Rush to success).

Suddenly my ears were poured with Azzan .It was call for zohar ki Namaz.I raised my head to locate the masjid.Vision stopped at a board written in Urdu: GPO Complex of Luknow.

Shaahi Masjid was shining in thick white wash coats, behind Mahila Hospital.The beauty of intricate carving was under cover of commercial shops inside a narrow lane.It is said to have been constructed during the era of first King of Awadh Ghaziuddin Haider during 1819-20.

Hazrat Ganj

After few steps, I was walking in corridor of Hazrat Ganj, which may be called Conn aught Palace of Lucknow. Hazratganj, got its name in 1842, and is popularly known as ‘Ganj’. After the First War of Independence in 1857, the British took over the city of Lucknow and Hazratganj was modeled after Queen Way in London

Shops in Hazrat Ganj are not like shops and show rooms as of grand malls of Delhi and other metro cities. They were a blend of old and new. Most building housing shops, restaurants, and cinemas were almost 100 years old.

Hazrat Ganj cateres to all ages, interests, tastes suited to all pockets, with a variety of shops, cinema halls, and restaurants, some of them could be recounted Most historic “The Indian Coffee house” and”Chaudhary sweet house”.

That was a time when the name Chaudhary sweet house, its sweets and other platers were a symbol of status.

I was feeling some food stuff for Pet Pooja (Lunch).Strolled upto “Moti Mahal Restaurant”, a big name for mouth watering chaats. Here I relished with chaat basket and Famous kulfi falooda.

Aminabad 

From Hazrat ganj I hired a riksha for Aminabad at a distance of about 3.50 Km.Aminabad is a cluster markets in narrow lanes and bylanes, which look quite similar to Chandni Chowk  of Old Delhi.

Historians tell about Aminabad that: Fourth Nawab of Avadh Asaf-ud-Daula gifted this area to Shah Aalam the the 16th Mughal Emperor during reign during 1759 -1806.

After his death, his Begum sold out the entire properties to one of the officers in Nawab Amjad Ali Shah court, Imdad Hussain Khan Aminaddaula (1842-47). He also further constructed here gardens, Mosque, Big houses, market and named it as Aminabad.

Apart from being a major shopping hub, Aminabad is also food lover’s paradise as it is home to several iconic eating joints in the city. The famous Prakash Kulfi and Tunday Kababi Wahid Biryani and famous Burma Biscuits shop are also located here.

The evening of Aminabad was at its full youth, the road and shops were full of customers.I was feeling laziness and tired.It was signal to add some energy by feasting myself.

Aminabad Market

Prakash Kulfi

In that craziness, I was at a Chaat shop in Aminabad. A plate of Aloo Tikki, Dahi Paapdi, Dahi Bade and Gol Gappe; these were the beginning of my evening tasting! Followed by Prakash kulfi topped with faluda noodles.

Staff of Prakash Kulfi was v gentle.They allowed me to click   full view of Aminabad market from roof of the shop.

Tunday Kababi

Lucknow and Tunday Kababi are synomys to each other. Yes; there is a Tunday Kababi’s outlet in Aminabad, but I choiced to eat Tunday kabas at Chowk’s outlet.This outlet is on road connecting Chowk Gol darwaza and Akbari gate.

Undoubtedly true the kababs at the Chowk shop taste was very different than that at Aminabad restaurant with the same name.


The Chowk outlet serves only two items– Only Tunday kabab and parathe (ulte tawa ke parathe). The other restaurants with the same name serve Tunday Kabas and many Mughlai dishes too.

The Chowk outlet serves only two items– Only Tunday kabab and parathe (ulte tawa ke parathe). The other restaurants with the same name serve Tunday Kabas and many Mughlai dishes too. 

Lassi of Chowk

This ends First day”s Itinerary of Lucknow with a dinner at Tunday Kababi. Travelling of Lucknow is Incomplete without chewing of Paan. I purchased two glauries of Paan from a shop in chowk.

The culture of Lucknow is still very much alive and retains its old world charm even today. Popularly known as the City of Nawabs, Lucknow is famous for its traditional cuisine, fine arts and the most courteous people you will ever find in India.

Written, photographed and posted by Engr Maqbool Akram